![]() ![]() A strong and soft leather will reveal a round stitching hole, a weak leather an elongated holes and stiff leather will result in cracks. These stitching rows becomes the weakest part of the leather and has to be periodically hydrated and fatliquored with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system to keep it from cracking. These exposures are also where the fatliquor evaporates and where the leather structure is exposed to non leather-safe solution that stiffens it and when flex cracks it. Softness and strength has to be maintain from below surface and since there is already a finishing that impede or obstruct the conditioner from entering it easily, the only approach is through the stitching rolls where the cross section is exposed. There are the 2 levels of leather conditioning for this leather type. ![]() > The leather is in ok condition and I want to improve and maintain it. It is recommended that you take pictures for reference for trouble shooting its effectiveness. When Bleach-9.9 is used it first has to be pH balance with Acidifier-2.0 prior to Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0. When the stain are satisfactorily removed with Prep-7.7, the sticky residue is removed by Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0. Plan B is to further remove the stain with Bleach-9.9 as booster to the Prep-7.7 in a formula ratio of Bleach-9.9 (1): Prep-7.7 (2): Hot-Water (2) for an 8 hour dwell for chemical reaction. In most cases the first phase of using Prep-7.7 solves most problem. Paper that becomes stain with the unknown ink may be replace with a fresh application. The paper towel can be lifted up from a corner for inspection and replace tightly back again. ![]() Prepare for a long dwell up to 72 hours with 24 hours inspection interval for the reverse transfer satisfaction. Old blue ink or dye on leather may take a longer time for it to suspend and have it “reverse transfer” to a stretchable paper towel. I am thinking stain this old would be impossible to lift. Also there is an old blog of blue ink on the driver seat. ![]()
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